I had a question regarding the instructions for the QAYG method that I used. Those instructions were not in the Country Cousins book. When I started doing the hand applique I searched for more books and bought a couple off Amazon. A Baltimore Album - 25 Applique Patterns by Marsha D. Radtke had the short tutorial in the back of that book. It really is very easy to do a quilt-as-you-go method. I am really enjoying this whole project.
I would like to know more about the Quilt As You Go method for hand appliqué quilting.
Bible Quilts, www.biblequilts.com
I sat down and tried to put together a summary of how I did mine. I am doing a copy and paste here.. if something doesn't look right, please ask.
Quilt As You Go
My hand appliquéd blocks were squared up to 16 ½” – they
were to finish at 16”. The batting I
used was Warm and Natural and I cut the batting squares 16 ¾” to give me just a
little “wiggle” room. The backing I used
has a busy design to semi-hide the quilting on the back side. The backing was
cut at 18” square. The backing is ¾” wider than the block all the way around. I put the backing face down then centered the
batting on the backing, then the appliquéd square on top centered.
Next step is very important… starting at the center hand
baste out to the edge in all directions – left, right, up, down and all
diagonals. Then baste all around the
perimeter ¼” in from the edge. When you
are hand quilting it is important that the block layers do not shift.
I used painter’s tape to keep my quilting lines
straight. Painter’s tape does not leave
residue like masking tape. I wanted my
lines ½” apart so I cut the 1” tape in half.
As a rule I did not quilt on top of the appliqué pieces. I either slipped the needle under narrow
sections, or I ended and restarted on the other side. At the edges I did not stitch through to the
backing on the last ½”.
For the joining of the blocks I cut my sashing to 1”
wide. The length of the sashing strips was
cut to the exact length of the block… 16 ½”.
I layed the block on my cutting mat with the backing folded out of the
way and trimmed any batting to the edge
of the block. I then pin the sashing
strip to the edge, making sure that the batting does not get caught in the ¼”
seam. Stitch the ¼” seam then trim the
backing even with the block edge. Then
press the sashing strip towards the outside on this first block. Now the batting on the second block (the edge
of the one to be joined) is trimmed if necessary, making sure to keep the
backing out of harms way. The backing is
NOT trimmed on this joined block. Now
the sashing from the first block is pinned to just the top and batting making
sure the backing is not caught in this seam.
The sashing is stitched using a ¼” seam just as the first side. If the sashing was stitched with an accurate
¼” seam on both sides, when you lay the two blocks face down, the batting
should butt up to each other. One side
of the backing has a ¾” flap that will be turned under and stitched down to the
Turn/press the edge of the flap under ¼”, then flip the edge
over to the other side pin it in place, then stitch it down. I used a very narrow zig-zag… I matched the
color on the back for my top thread and the off white of my backing for the
bobbin. I know I probably should have
hand stitched all this, but I thought the joining of the blocks would be much
sturdier done on my machine.
Thank you for writing that all out. I'm making a quilt with hexagon shaped pieces and don't have a long arm machine or the financial resources to pay someone to quilt it for me. I wonder if this approach would work with hexagon shaped pieces, at least for the center until I get to the wider strips for the squared off border.
I have tried to envision all the ways I could use this method. On my Country Cousins quilt I plan on doing a hand appliqued border as well, but I will do the hand quilting maybe in swirls or echoing of the applique. The only thing to worry about is keeping the edge free from the backing. I am sure you could use machine quilting as well.