Thanks, Ramona & Judy Lee :-) I'm a (mostly) happy camper.
I changed the needle, wound a new bobbin & put that in and rethreaded the machine. I tried changing the number of stitches both up and down and watching my speed, but got the same results - it stitches just fine going side to side (horizontally) but skips when I move the machine toward & away from me (vertically). I watched a couple videos on Youtube about bobbin tension & the thread comes out of mine just fine. I'll call the company this week & see what they say. Maybe I'll just quilt all my quilts in a grid - load the quilt one way then turn it so the quilt lines are perpendicular! LOL
I have Warm & Natural batting & a plain muslin on the frame for practice - could either of those be an issue??
Eileen:I have Warm & Natural batting & a plain muslin on the frame for practice - could either of those be an issue??
I would not think so. It does sound like you need to call whoever you bought it from for some help.
Life is like a quilt...bits & pieces, joy & sorrow, stitched with love
It definitely sounds like a machine issue. It really seems like the stitch regulator disengages when you move vertical. When everything is working the way it should it doesn't matter which direction you sew. Good luck.
Do you have the Crown Jewel or the Jewel?
I taught a lady with the Crown and she had the same problem,Baby Lock repair man said it had something to do with the timing on the dual stitch regulator. My Miss Jewel hasn't had that problem.
I have a TL18LS (2009) and have added a Qbot to my Lizzie. We have a group for TinLizzie18 products on youtube...it's called TinLizzieLongarm, and we have become a very active and helpful bunch.
My first longarm machine was a Nustyle 227 (big green converted industrial machine from about 1987). I got Momma Machine in 2006, and she taught me a lot...mostly how to time her with my eyes closed! LOL.
I love the TL18LS...I've never had to time it, though I thought I might have to the other day...left it working and went into the house...seems it got stuck on some batting and quilted the next full row (81") in place! The bobbin area was so full of thread, would not budge...cut it all away..and she is still in time! Amazing!!!
I do a lot of free motion quilting, so having the Qbot is a bonus...nothing to disconnect or turn off to use free motion. The Qbot does not interfere with free motion and only engages when I select a design and run it.
For me, being able to combine the free motion is something I need to be able to do without having to disengage a machine first. Qbot leaves my table free of any belts also, as the motors run on a guide wire attached to the outside of the frame. The movement is smooth and even (unless I have the wires too loose, lint somewhere, or one is frayed).
As with all machines, there is a learning curve...and the same goes for the software. I'm finding both to not be really hard to learn.
Margie Campbellmargecam52@valornet.comTinLizzie18 LSLittlefield, TX
Learn to use a non regulated machine first. It will make using a regulated machine much easier. I use the manual stitch more than the regulated. Had I known that, I'd probably have gotten a regular TL18, instead of the LS (Lizzie Stitch) model.
My grace made frame has 10ft poles...I can do up to a 110" wide backing with no problem...plenty for a King size quilt. This does take up most of the space, and makes changing the bobbins a bit harder than with smaller quilts...but it can be done.
Stitch regulators are nice, especially if you aren't able to control your speed around curves, etc. I learned on a non-regulated machine & am glad I did. I was asked a few times how I could get such nice stitches non-regulated...it's called practice and learning your machine.
I'd get the regulated machine, but then turn the regulator off and learn to listen as you quilt...watch and listen as you do curves and change stitch direction...if your stitches get long in the curves, you know to slow down...etc.
If you are leaning into the belly bar & it's giving you tummy trouble...try rolling the area you want to quilt closer to the belly bar...as Linda V Taylor always says...you don't want to cause back/shoulder problems from reaching out to quilt. Unless I am doing a motif and have to use the whole area (say a 12" block), I start with the leader on the take up bar about half way to the belly bar...that puts the top of the quilt nearer to me. I try to remember to keep my elbows at my side and let my body do the movement as I quilt..."dance to quilt"..lol. It really works!
It may be your timing. I have not had to work with the timing on my Gammill, thank goodnes, so I'm not much help. My machine did come with a timing gadget so maybe your dealer has one and you can at least check the timing. I hate you having these difficulties as I know how excited you were to get your machine and now...well. I do hope contacting your dealer will fix the issue. It does seem to be a strange that it works fine one direction but makes those large stitches the other way. I tried to find a good yahoo chat site that you could get on and ask questions. Maybe your dealer will know of a good chat site for you for the future. They have a yahoo Gammill chat site and I love it. Hope things work out soon for you.
I put a cafe rod (bought the 48"..thin round rod) pulled apart...one half for each side...slide it under the elastic and rest one end on the take up bar, and one on the belly bar (or the quilt top bar, depending on your frame)...holds the clamps up out of your way.
Check the Y encoder. It's the one on the upper carriage...watch it roll as you move the machine (turned off) forward and back...does the wheel stop turning at all? I put a dot on the side of my encoders and the wheels of the machine (TL18LS)...and that makes it easy to watch for hesitation in the wheels/encoders. Also, switch the cable for the Y encoder with the cable for the X encoder (X encoder goes right to left the length of the frame)...if the skips switch to the X encoder...you probably have a bad cable. The encoders themselves are rarely bad...but an uneven frame, too tight a cable, a bad cable can really cause those skipped stitches.
I need to go for now...I'll come back on and post some other hints as to what may help your stitch problems...post if you already have them fixed.
Judy Lee, I have the Crown Jewel. I called the shop owner today & she was puzzled. She knows how carefully we moved the machine & I told her everything I've tried so far. She wondered if it was an issue with the frame not being level so I have corrected that as much as I can & it did not help. I was at work most of the day so I will call the shop again tomorrow & we'll try to see if we can fix it via the phone.
I really appreciate all the support from everyone here - thanks for all the suggestions!
Marge, thanks for the suggestions - I'll see if Mary (shop owner) thinks the encoders, timing or cords could be an issue. I appreciate all your time :-)
Oops! I'm reading all these great suggestions & got some mixed up - thanks, Ramona C, for the idea to check the timing!